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The Four Horsemen

The Four Horsemen

Address 295 Grand Street; NY 11211
between Havemeyer and Roebling Street
Neighbourhood Brooklyn – Williamsburg | See on map
Subway Metropolitan Av [G], Bedford Av [L]
Telephone +1 718 599 4900
Website http://www.fourhorsemenbk.com/
Price USD 40-60
Hours Mon-Fri 17:30-01. Sat-Sun 15-01 (kitchen open 17:30-23)

James Murphy, the man behind LCD Soundsystem, is no doubt the most famous of the partners at the Four Horsemen. His Danish wife Christina Topsøe, however, appears to have been the most vocal because this hip little wine bar and restaurant somehow feels much more like Copenhagen than Williamsburg.

Furniture, decoration and tableware have been lovingly curated through part DIY, part eBay finds. It’s “hygge”, adding a layer of Danish character and cosiness to the bland Nordic minimalism of whitewashed walls and penchant for blonde wood. They’ve even imported the craze for natural wine that’s sweeping the Danish capital; the 250 wines (a dozen available by the glass) on the menu are all made with minimum additives.

While the lack of sulphites might not be to your liking, the menu of nibbles and sharing plates (as well as a few full sized dishes) should please everybody. Chef Nick Curtola works wonders in the tiny kitchen, producing mouthwatering morsels like olives escabeche, fromage blanc with strawberries and kale crostini made with sheep’s milk cheese. The pork sausages and the house specialty beef tartare are great, too.

There’s only room for about 40 but reservations are taken and the place remains open every night until one, leaving you enough time for another glass after dinner. The new wave and alt rock soundtrack doesn’t do justice to Murphy (he also founded DFA Records) but Metropolitan is only ten minutes walk away if you want to ‘dance yrself clean’. Just like LCD Soundsystem was dance music for adults, this is Billyburg hipness for grown-ups.