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Yugo The Bunker

Address San Blas 4; 28014 Madrid
by San Pedro
Neighbourhood Huertas – Las Letras | See on map
Metro Atocha [L1]
Telephone +34 91 444 9034
Website http://www.yugothebunker.com/
Price Tasting menus from EUR 55 plus drinks.
Hours Tues-Sat 13-17, 20-23:30.

Considering the atrocities and war crimes committed by the Japanese forces during the Second World War, then you’d think it might be a little, ahem, insensitive to deck out a sushi restaurant as a Japanese WWII bunker. But then again, as you should know, Spain is different so that’s exactly what Julián Mármol did. Knowing your world history, however, is thankfully no indicator of culinary prowess.

A Japanophile to the max, the self-taught chef produces some of the best Japanese cuisine in Spain here. The Bunker, hidden downstairs in the basement, is where you’ll find the curious tribute to Imperial warfare but this section is only open to members of Mármol’s private club (clear the waiting list and the annual 600 euro fee for access). Yugo, at street level, is the part that is open to the general public.

At either, settle in for a tasting menu and a gastronomic feast of prime ingredients like wild Alaska sockeye salmon, Canadian scallops and Kobe beef. The sashimi is excellent, cut and sliced to melt-in-your-mouth perfection. The niguiris are exquisite, served traditionally, served with beef and served warm. After that, some superb temakis and some memorable desserts, you too will give Julián a pass on his misaimed fandom.