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The Duck and Rice

The Duck and Rice

The Duck and Rice

Address 90 Berwick Street; London W1F 0QB
by Kemps Court
Neighbourhood Soho | See on map
Tube Piccadilly Circus [Bakerloo, Piccadilly], Oxford Circus [Bakerloo, Central, Victoria]
Telephone +44 20 3327 7888
Website http://www.theduckandrice.com
https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Duck-and-Rice/580163602128187
Price Sit-down GBP 40-60. Snack meal GBP 20-30.
Hours Mon-Thurs 12-23:30. Fri-Sat 12-24. Sun 12-22:30

Alan Yau is once again out to redefine our perceptions of Chinese food. The Wagamama man first transformed it into fine dining at Hakkasan and then made dim sum a thing at his Yauatcha tea house (incidentally right next door). Here at the Duck and Rice it’s the take-out menu that’s been given a major overhaul.

This place used to house Soho boozer The Endurance and it pretty much still looks and operates as a pub as you walk in. Well, an elegant one, with a vast selection of quality brews and some decent Asian-inspired cocktails. And food-wise, at street level, you’re limited to a selection of beer snacks like prawn crackers, pork buns and crispy shredded beef.

That’s already better than most pub grub, but it’s upstairs that the magic happens, in a more conventional restaurant setting with 70 covers. There it’s a feast of Chinese comfort food that includes quality renditions of classic take-out dishes such as crispy duck, a sublime cod fried rice and ‘ten heavenly kings of dim sum’. Morsels of delight.

Downstairs is fine to pop in for a drink and a snack – while you’re at it, hop onto the Wi-Fi and queue up a Canton pop song on the Duckbox, the virtual successor to the legendary jukebox of The Endurance – but, if you can, get in a booking for the upstairs dining room. So sweet, with only the prices as a sour element.