| Print |

Flesh & Buns

Flesh & Buns

Address 41 Earlham Street; London WC2H 9LX
by Neal Street
Neighbourhood Covent Garden – Seven Dials | See on map
Tube Covent Garden [Piccadilly]
Telephone +44 20 7287 8581
Website http://www.fleshandbuns.com/
Price GBP 20-40
Hours Mon-Fri 12-15, 17-22:30 (Wed-Fri until 23:30). Sat 12-23:30. Sun 12-21:30.

Ross Shonhan, the former head chef of Nobu and Zuma, appears to have a weakness for names best suited for cheesy porn. And if Bone Daddies seemed facetious for his Soho place that’s based on limb noodles, then Flesh & Buns is no better as you go to this Covent Garden baby for its fluffy flat buns. Baby ain’t got back.

Hirata buns is the specialty, the slightly doughy, steamed Chinese ‘buns’ that you fill yourself, with pork (the traditional choice) or any of the other ‘flesh’, such as crispy duck, grilled sea bass and salmon teriyaki. They are delicious, and dangerously addictive, but there’s a bunch of other dishes – hot and cold, small or for sharing – that all seem to call out your name.

That means that while technically possible to keep the bill below 20 quid, expect to be tempted into ordering, say, the softshell crab, a prawn tempura and a hot stone rice as well, just to try. Add in sake and cocktails, and it’s easily closer to double or triple that. Bring friends or risk bursting your belly, wallet, or both.

Located in the former Kitchen Italia basement space by Seven Dials, it’s significantly larger than Bone Daddies in Soho but also likely to be even busier. Use the online reservations on their website to book ahead.