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The Riding House Café

Address 43 Great Titchfield Street; London W1W 7PQ
by Riding House Street
Neighbourhood Fitzrovia | See on map
Tube Oxford Circus [Bakerloo, Central, Victoria]
Telephone +44 20 7927 0840
Website http://www.ridinghousecafe.co.uk/
Price Brunch GBP 10-20. Lunch and dinner GBP 30
Hours Mon-Fri 08-23. Sat-Sun 09-23

The ‘small plates’ thing may be in vogue, but a decent selection quickly adds up to the same as a regular meal, often putting paid to the nagging feeling that it’s just a clever way of wangling more cash out of you. This ‘pick and choose’ concept, however, works out surprisingly well at the Riding House Cafe.

Brunch is good but stop by at any mealtime. For £3-£5 per plate you’re looking at salt cod fritters, Moorish lamb with smoked aubergine, a super succulent slow roasted pork belly, and crostinis with artichoke dip with not a Scotch egg in sight.

And if you prefer your mains in one meal, the steak and chips are going down a storm and the burger with fois gras is an extra-juicy joy, as is the chorizo hash brown which arrives steaming on a frying pan heaped with sausage, mushrooms and a poached egg for good measure.

The place is from the same duo behind popular gastropub The Garrison and top-notch noshery Village East. With interiors like a slightly unfinished loft with huge ceilings, big windows and squishy banquettes, you couldn’t feel further away from the nearby Oxford Street bustle and its unending throngs of school-trippers repeating ‘Primark’ like a mantra.

Tucked away a safe distance from the retail hell of discount shops peddling wheely luggage, it hasn’t been discovered by the dreary downtown denizens yet, instead being filled with fashion types, media people and the odd model tucking into the superfood and herb salad. Giddy up.