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Höst. Photo: Jonas Bjerre-Poulsen

Höst. Photo: Jonas Bjerre-Poulsen

Höst. Photo: Jonas Bjerre-Poulsen

Höst. Photo: Jonas Bjerre-Poulsen

Höst. Photo: Jonas Bjerre-Poulsen

Address Nørre Farimagsgade 41; 1364 Copenhagen K
by Ahlefeldtsgade
Neighbourhood Indre By – Nørreport | See on map
Metro Nørreport [A, B, C, E, H, DSB]
Telephone +45 89 93 84 09
Website http://cofoco.dk/hoest.php
https://www.facebook.com/restauranthoest
Price Á la carte DKK 350-450. Set three-course menu DKK 275. Drinks not included.
Hours Mon-Sat 17:30-24 (last seating 21:30)

For all the hype surrounding the new Nordic cuisine, in Copenhagen it’s still largely the reserve of the town’s finer restaurants such as Noma, Geranium and their likes. To try it out, you’ll usually need some combination of luck, a good concierge, and lots of persistence to score a reservation, as well as fairly deep pockets to foot the bill.

This, however, comes from the Cofoco restaurant group that includes favourite haunts like Les Trois Cochons and Oysters & Grill and whose concept of good, yet wallet-friendly food, served up in pleasant surroundings, has been a run-away success in the Danish capital where eating out can otherwise be a costly affair. And Höst stays true to that concept.

A few corners are being cut – nobody’s been out foraging for ingredients here, and a few may even have been substituted with cheaper alternatives – but it’s certainly new Nordic in the sense of using traditional recipes, techniques, and (mostly) local produce, while adding a modern or experimental twist here and there. And with Jonas Christensen in the kitchen, previously chef at gourmet haven 1.th., the result is rather excellent.

Ordering is also made easy; as at the other Cofoco establishments, volume and economies of scale are achieved by cutting down on variety. Guests can pick (or supplement) from the four items (starter, main course, two desserts) on the à la carte menu, or eat from the (recommended) set three-course option. Deem it either lacking in choice, or convenient when trying out something unfamiliar.

You won’t mistake Höst for Noma – although the new look of that place does resemble the raw, spartan interiors found here, by the talented local architecture and design duo Norm Architects – but neither will your bank manager. You should leave with enough change to have some fun in Copenhagen without having to work Ørstedsparken around the corner.