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Geist. Photo: Space Copenhagen

Geist. Photo: Space Copenhagen

Geist. Photo: Space Copenhagen

Geist. Photo: Space Copenhagen

Geist. Photo: Space Copenhagen

Address Kongens Nytorv 8; 1050 Copenhagen K
Neighbourhood Indre By – Nyhavn | See on map
Metro Kongens Nytorv [M1, M2]
Telephone +45 33 13 37 13
Website http://restaurantgeist.dk/
Price DKK 400-500 plus drinks
Hours Mon-Sun 17-24

Although overshadowed internationally by Noma’s René Redzepi and Geranium’s Bocuse d’Or winner Rasmus Kofoed, Bo Bech is a true celebrity chef at home. Having fallen off the radar since leaving Paustian, the restaurant where his name and reputation was built, he’s ready to reclaim the limelight with this new hotspot.

Bech has teamed up with the local design agency Space and local bar and restaurant magnate Torben Olsen to make Geist a place that’s as suitable for a scene-y outing as for a tête-à-tête date, with the swift serving and table turn-arounds keeping the night on schedule. Request seating at the banquettes along the side walls for more intimacy, at the stools around the impressive open kitchen to observe the chefs and your fellow diners, or by the windows to follow the street action.

Despite the restaurant’s gourmet pedigree, Geist proffers a relatively simple fare and sets aside the city’s preference for tasting menus and prescribed plates with an extensive 30-dish à la carte offering. Specialties include his signature avocado and caviar starter, as well as the highly vaunted ‘airy tiramisu’ dessert and the equally delicious beetroot crème brûlée.

Pricing may seem reasonable at first, but note that servings are tiny and, even feasting on the bread basket, a minimum of three or four dishes will be needed to satisfy most people (model-skinny bitches aside). And do get over any carb-issues that you may have; Bech is famed for the sour dough bread made at his own nearby bakery, so dig in.