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Café Lillebror

Café Lillebror

Address Jarmers Plads 1; 1551 Copenhagen V
by Vester Voldgade
Neighbourhood Indre By – Vesterport | See on map
Metro Vesterport [A, B, C, E, H], Nørreport [M1, M2, A, B, C, E, H, DSB]
Telephone +45 32 20 49 00
Website http://cafelillebror.dk/
Price Daytime DKK 100-200. Dinner menu DKK 325
Hours Mon-Fri 08-22. Sat 09-22. (Kitchen closed 16:30-17:30)

Lillebror translates into ‘little brother’ in Danish and it’s indeed the younger relative to Bror, the restaurant run by former Noma chefs Victor Wågman and Samuel Nutter. And as one would expect, things are even more relaxed, studenty almost, than at the (already informal) older sibling located around the corner.

Not that it harbours any inferiority complexes. Come for dinner at night and you’re treated to a new Nordic cuisine which is equally accomplished, and at a similar price point. They manage to extract subtleties in taste and texture from seemingly simple ingredients that you wouldn’t have thought possible. Fresh, playful and exquisite.

During the day it operates as a regular café – though with a baker from Noma, Brit Walling, manning the ovens, it’s not quite ordinary either. The baked goods for both ‘brothers’ is made right here and the cakes and sourdough bread alone would make for a wonderful meal. And forget the cronut. These boys have got the brossant: A brioche-croissant bastard.

For all that, breakfast is where the place really excels. Porridge might sound boring – until you add a shot of whiskey, whiskey-soaked raisins and the dish is flambéed in front of you. Add a fried bacon sandwich and you realise that Lillebror isn’t just here to handle the reservations overflow of Bror. This kid has a personality of his own.