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Restaurant Bror. Photo: Christina Flensborg

Restaurant Bror. Photo: Christina Flensborg

Restaurant Bror. Photo: Christina Flensborg

Address Sankt Peders Stræde 24A; 1453 Copenhagen K
by Larsbjørnsstræde
Neighbourhood Indre By – Latinerkvarteret | See on map
Metro Nørreport [M1, M2, A, B, C, E, H, DSB]
Telephone +45 32 17 59 99
Website http://www.restaurantbror.dk/
Price Four-course tasting menu DKK 350, wine pairing DKK 325.
Hours Wed-Sun 17:30-24 (kitchen closes at 21:30)

Interest in Noma, the world’s top restaurant for several years running, shows no signs of abating, so good luck to you if you’re trying to score one of their coveted reservations. The good news, however, is that it’s spawning a steady stream of noteworthy eateries around town from former kitchen staff, of which this is one.

Restaurant Brorbrother in Danish – is run by Swedish chef Victor Wågman and Englishman Samuel Nutter. They are neither siblings nor particularly nuts but they did work together as sous chefs under René Redzepi at Noma. Young, ambitious and pretty cute, too (and straight, so hold your horses big guy), the duo is staging their own concept for new Nordic cuisine.

Their version is a more accessible interpretation, not just in terms of price level but also with respect to the culinary challenge presented to the guest. So while foraging (think lots of roots and seaweed) and traditional ingredients from the region still play a big role, expect less moss and fewer nausea-inducing items like fish heads and live ants. And at just DKK 350 for the kitchen’s four-course menu, we’re talking prices that are comparable to the Cofoco group.

It’s a great way to try out new Nordic, and although the 46-seat capacity isn’t exactly enormous, getting a table is relatively manageable with a bit of advance planning. As with the cuisine, the natural wine menu won’t be to everybody’s liking but at least you’ll now know without having spent a fortune. And the boys’ bars are only a short walk away if you need a real drink afterwards.