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Taller. Photo: Rasmus Malmstrøm

Taller. Photo: Rasmus Malmstrøm

Address Tordenskjoldsgade 11; 1055 Copenhagen K
by Heibergsgade
Neighbourhood Indre By – Kongens Nytorv | See on map
Metro Kongens Nytorv [M1, M2]
Telephone +45 72 14 08 71
Website http://www.restaurant-taller.dk/
Price Tasting menus DKK 415-685. Wine pairing DKK 415-685. Lunch à la carte DKK 400-500.
Hours Wed 17:30-23. Thur-Sat 12-15, 17:30-23

When it comes to South American food, Venezuela has somewhat unfairly been standing in the shade of its Peruvian neighbours. It’s gotten little exposure beyond arepas but with its use of flavours and ingredients unique to the Andes and the Amazon and influences ranging from Caribbean to African and European, there’s much more to it. Add elements from Noma’s new Nordic cuisine and things get really interesting.

Taller translates into ‘workshop’ in Spanish, and this really is a culinary lab for Karlos Ponte and Luis Moreno, the young Venezuelan chefs behind it. Between the two of them their experience includes stints at Hacienda Benazuza (the elBulli hotel), Radio and Noma, and here it’s used to reinterpret traditional dishes from their home country, infusing them with Nordic influences, local ingredients and modern techniques.

That means asado negro with pork substituting the traditional beef component, corbullón with local mushrooms and algae taking the place of grouper, and North Sea langoustine with catara hot sauce and a little molecular magic. The combinations are exotic and exciting – in a good way. You choose between a four or a seven-course menu and you may regret if you haven’t gone big, even with the extra dessert option.

They’ve poached sommelier Carsten Cesar from Kadeau and, given the uncommon tastes in play, his wine-pairings come handy. Design-wise, everything from furniture to concept has been conceived by local studio mencke&vagnby and the look is clearly Nordic, though hardly frosty. Seating less than 40 people, it’s an intimate dining experience that lends itself to both romance and foodie indulgence. Very chévere.