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Kadeau København. Photo: Marie Louise Munkegaard

Kadeau København. Photo: 60by80

Kadeau. Photo: Marie Louise Munkegaard

Address Wildersgade 10b; 1400 Copenhagen K
by Christians Kirke
Neighbourhood Christianshavn | See on map
Metro Christianshavn [M1, M2]
Telephone +45 33 25 22 23
Website http://www.kadeau.dk/kadeaukobenhavn.php
Price Tasting menu DKK 1,850. Wine pairing menu DKK 1,400.
Hours Mon-Fri 18:30-20. Sat 12-13, 18:30-20.

If Noma is the obvious choice for trying out the much revered new Nordic cuisine in Copenhagen, then Kadeau København is the more accessible option – at least in terms of getting a table, with a waiting list that counts in days, rather than months. Prices, however, have gone up after it received a Michelin star in 2013.

While René Redzepi’s acclaimed restaurant has made its reputation from foraging the Nordic forests for ingredients, Kadeau limits its sourcing to the isle of Bornholm. That’s a picturesque Danish island in the middle of the Baltic Sea, speaking a strange dialect of Danish and known for its rugged nature, sunny climate and abundant seafood – it’s also the location of the original restaurant that’s considered one of Denmark’s finest.

The Copenhagen branch is a whole lot more ambitious and, since it moved into new digs next door, cosier. Roomier, with fewer tables and sporting a surprisingly homely-looking open kitchen, it’s like having dinner at a friend’s (very stylish) place, just with a 20-course menu. It’s gourmet without the white tablecloth, although service is both competent and attentive.

Commandeering the stoves, you’ll find founder Nicolai Nørregaard, while Magnus Høeg Kofoed and sommelier and co-founder Rasmus Kofoed work the room. The choice has been reduced to the single 20-course set menu (let them know of any food allergies) that’s changed daily but expect a culinary journey of regional veggies, seafood and meats, exquisitely worked over with local herbs, berries, mushrooms and what have you, for a memorable meal.