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Address Borgergade 16; 1300 Copenhagen K
between Landgreven and Dronningens Tværgade
Neighbourhood Indre By – Frederiksstaden | See on map
Metro Kongens Nytorv [M1, M2]
Telephone +45 36 16 30 00
Website http://restaurant-clou.dk/
Price À la carte DKK 400-600 plus drinks. Seven-course tasting & wine pairing menu DKK 1,300-1,500.
Hours Tue-Sat 12-15 (wine bar only), 17-24 (last seating 21:00).

They were born only in 1985 and you may not have heard much about them. However, having opened their first gourmet restaurant at the age of just 23, chef Jonathan Berntsen, trained by Denmark’s finest, and his twin brother Alexander, a self-taught sommelier who’s also done the rounds, are already veterans on the Copenhagen gastronomic scene. And they are talented.

Sitting next to Pluto to form quite a foodie hotbed on Borgergade, Clou is their second go at a place of their own and while the twins got known for their innovative but slightly unorthodox approaches, they have since grown more sophisticated. Combining new Nordic and French with an open mind, there’s North sea cod, there’s foie gras, there’s pulpo. It may be hard to label, yet easy to classify: their craft has been refined into a Michelin-starred cuisine.

The one thing that remains unchanged is a symbiotic relationship between food and wine; you’d be missing out by not ordering the wine pairing menu. So although possible to order à la carte, do go all-out with the ‘daily Clou’ seven-course tasting menu, complete with bubbly and coffees. If you aren’t a big drinker, the smaller wine menu will halve the pours into your glass.

Service is attentive and there’s antique silverware and white tablecloth, but the atmosphere is far from hoity toity. Lighting comes from classic Copenhagen street lamps, a playlist from top Danish DJ Thomas Madvig sounds, and there’s noise spilling over from the adjoining wine bar – cheaper, more casual and also open for lunch – that serves tapas-sized dishes and by the glass.

The Berntsens may not get you excited like the Peters or Patriota twins, but they should nonetheless manage to bring a warm and fuzzy feeling to your belly. ‘Clou’ means ‘highlight’ in Danish and this food experience is one.