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Amass. Photo: Josh Evans – hearthstrung

Photo: Amass

Photo: Amass

Address Refshalevej 153; 1432 Copenhagen K
Neighbourhood Christianshavn – Refshaleøen | See on map
Metro Bus 40 to Refshaleøen, Havnebus 991/992 to Refshaleøen
Telephone +45 43 58 43 30 (lines Tues-Sat 12-16)
Website http://www.amassrestaurant.com
Price Lunch menu DKK 375. Dinner menu DKK 575. Wine pairing DKK 375.
Hours Tues-Thur 18-24. Fri-Sat 12-16, 18-24. Last seatings at 21:00.
Notes Bookings open online on a two-month rolling basis

Plenty of extraordinary culinary prodigies pass through Noma. However, Matthew Orlando, the Californian chef who’s also held senior positions at Per Se and the Fat Duck, was the first – and, until his departure, only – to hold the mantle of head chef.

That alone should explain the buzz surrounding his first restaurant – incidentally located just on the other side of the Copenhagen Opera from René Redzepi’s much-lauded eatery. The fact that the entire team sport resumes as impressive as Orlando’s own only serves to raise already sky-high expectations.

Still, Amass isn’t about to buckle under the pressure or let the hype go to its head. Housed in a former shipyard tool depot, overlooking the orchard and garden, the setting is all at once industrial, rustic and unpretentious. Even better, at DKK 375 for the three-course lunch and DKK 575 for the tasting menu, the price point is as populist as it gets for this level of cooking.

It shouldn’t surprise you that seasonal, local produce forms the basis of the cooking philosophy. The menu is changed frequently and final touches are adjusted spontaneously to accommodate the specific properties of any particular day’s batch of supplies. It’s ambitious, yet playful; expect to be amazed, confounded and challenged by tastes, textures and sensations.

Despite the similarities, Amass is not Noma and it doesn’t try to be. Instead it’s so much more doable, both in terms of cost and availability: With two seatings and room for 60, including the ten-person make-new-friends Table 153 that mixes diners (a max of four from any party), odds of getting in are good. No luck? There are six places held daily for walk-ins. Go.