SEPTIME

The concept of a ‘modern’ bistro is hardly something new, though in Paris where traditional pomp and circumstance still beat out contemporary cuisine, it’s a little harder to find someone getting the concept right. But even harder to find wrongs at Bertrand Grébaut’s new establishment, just across from the futuristic Hi-Matic hotel in the lively 11th.

Having trained with gastro heavyweights like Alain Passard and Joel Robouchon and earned his first Michelin star at Agapé, the maiden venture of the young chef – still in his twenties – is assuredly professional. Dishes on the short (but frequently updated) menu are technical triumphs, seasonal ingredients laid out like miniature artworks, with top-notch produce taking centre place.

The garnishing may remind foodies of Nordic-style saucing, as will the interiors; clean but comfortable, barren surfaces, minimalist lines and big reclaimed wooden tables without table cloths recall the kind of rustic warehouse spaces you’d find in Copenhagen. Claim a spot near the open kitchen if you can.

There’s already big buzz around Septime, so it’s well worth booking in advance, especially with a price point still hovering around the ‘reasonable’ mark (a set lunch will set you back less than 30 euros). Get in before the classicists roam outside of their comfort zone.