THOUMIEUX

In a trend that looks set to stay, Hôtel de Crillon’s young Michelin-starred chef Jean-François Piège has descended from loftier culinary heights to take over the cooking at Thierry Costes’ tiny 15-room boutique hotel in the quiet 7th arrondissement, and the gastronomic hotshot doubles up.

It’s the upstairs two-Michelin star restaurant gastronomique that has the foodies excited, with its haute-cuisine served in a ultra slick 60s lounge-style dining room designed by India Mahdavi. You size your menu according to appetite (or gluttony) – one, two or three main courses, plus an assortment of hors d’oeuvres, as well as dessert and cheeses – but with a mere 20 covers and bookings taken a strict six days in advance, it’s unlikely to become a regular hangout of yours.

The chic brasserie on the ground floor is considerably more accessible, both in terms of getting a reservation and prices, but the food – classic bistro fare with a twist – has also been relegated to a supporting cast role here. Whilst the vintage character of the room has been retained, the vibe is as au courant and as full of posey attitude as expected from a Costes establishment. Go easy on the moules-frites but gorge on the scene.