SUR MESURE PAR THIERRY MARX
| Address | Mandarin Oriental Paris, 251 rue Saint-Honoré; 75001 Paris by rue Cambon |
|---|---|
| Neighbourhood | 1st Arrondissement | See on map |
| Metro | Tuileries [M1], Concorde [M1], Madeleine [M8, M12, M14] |
| Telephone | +33 1 70 98 73 00 |
| Website | http://www.mandarinoriental.com/paris/ |
| Price | Lunch menu EUR 70, dinner menus EUR 145-180. |
| Check availability |
It’s often been said that Parisian cooking is as close as gourmands will get to heaven. At the Mandarin Oriental, where chef Thierry Marx holds court over restaurant Sur Mesure, you’ll literally feel like you’ve stepped through the pearly gates themselves with its white-on-white décor and cloud-like sculpturing.
If conceptual isn’t your thing and you’re looking for a simple steak frites, you won’t get it here. Those who follow the likes of Ferran and Heston, however, will be interested in the imaginative menu (split into eight or 12 courses) which features riffs on the simple egg, deconstructed into a plate of almost freakish detail, caviar-topped brioche accompanying razor-shell clams, and Marx’s signature risotto of bean sprouts and truffles in soy milk.
Described as ‘techno-emotional’ cuisine, you’ll be forced to engage with it if for no other reason than the lack of extraneous distractions. From the tables and chairs which seat 40 (note that guests at the hotel are not guaranteed seating), to the cloud-like sculpturing and Kubrick-esque wall that seems to be peeling away from itself, interiors are kept clinically simple.
