LA TERRAZA DEL CASINO

You can’t seem to take two steps in Spain without bumping into some product/disciple/endorsement of Ferran Adrià and his El Bulli legacy – like some kind of irresponsible love God of the seventies, the fruits of his labour are to be found throughout the country. Here, head chef Paco Roncero has created what is known as the ‘El Bulli of Madrid’ with Ferran himself making frequent consultancy visits. Case in point – the tasting menu starts you off with a mojito, but frozen fresh tableside with liquid nitrogen. The madness continues with mini tubes of edible toothpaste, and arrays of dishes named ‘Tapiplatos’ and ‘Morphings’. If it all sounds a bit too Lord of the Rings for you, best to leave before a disciple stabs you with their fork. For all that, the terrace has glorious views in the summer and the interiors, courtesy of local design guru Jaime Hayón, are light and airy, with live jazz and a tinkling piano. All this on the top floor of one of the city’s most notorious ex gentlemen’s clubs – perhaps now we know where these Spanish chefs get their mojo from.