NOPI SOHO

Fans of Ottolenghi’s wholesome pseudo-Middle Eastern nosh have flocked to owner Yotam’s first ‘real’ restaurant in Soho. While the menu isn’t much of a departure from the outposts in Notting Hill, Islington et al, here you get to sit down for longer and enjoy the whitewashed and gilded surrounds of a proper dining room.

NOPI is not exactly cheap, essentially serving up glorified deli-fare but sharing is the suggested way to go, with pick-and-choose options from three sections incorporating meat, veg and fish at roughly £11 a plate.

With fresh ingredients popping off the plate with colour, you won’t go far wrong with braised pig cheeks and lamb sweetbreads, whilst Italian burrata gets a thorough going over pieces of white peach. Sprig for dessert and pleasers include the Spanish-style doughnuts or cardamom yogurt served with guava – all the kinds of inspired pairings the chefs here are known for.

The staff are friendly as can be and the interiors are lovely (the bathrooms in particular are worth a visit – and not for the usual Soho shenanigans) with pull-out paper tablecloths strung to the wall and mixed mirrors. Fork aside the finances and you’ll love this place; worry too much about the bill and you might as well not bother coming.