BARBECOA

A Jamie Oliver restaurant in a shopping centre? Whilst that may smack of the crusading chef’s usual attempts to derail the fast food generation from their usual Nando’s mega meal, the latest opening from Britain’s pukka chef is actually a thoroughly meaty collaboration with American BBQ guru Adam Perry Lang in the new Jean Nouvel-designed One New Change.

There is, in fact, also a Nando’s in the mall, but it’s a slightly different clientele that they’re after here at Barbecoa. So no peri-peri, but instead beer can chicken – grilled with a brew right up its rear end, if you were curious – as well as a very long list of grilled beef, pork and lamb. Greens are available, but only to provide a splash of colour at this carnivore heaven. Some fine cocktails and calorie-busting desserts are also available if you can fit them into your allocated two-hour time slot – the 200 seats are already in high demand.

Now, you wouldn’t go to a restaurant in The City, especially on weekends, only because it’s next to a Topshop and H&M. The three million pound eatery has been decked out by Tom Dixon’s Design Research Studio to make it more of a full-on experience. It is – it’s like dining in a visionary design showroom, with a divine view of St Paul’s Cathedral and a very earthly waft of grilled baby ribs. But if it gets too much, just step out. Retail therapy is available right outside.